The views were wider and finer than on the previous days, taking in great sweeps of peaked mountains, wooded to their summits, and from the top of the Pass of Sanno the clustered peaks were glorified into unearthly beauty in a golden mist of evening sunshine. I slept at a house combining silk farm, post office, express office, and daimiy&ocirc;&rsquo;s rooms, at the hamlet of Ouchi, prettily situated in a valley with mountainous surroundings&hellip; 
&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;-Isabella Bird, 1878

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Japan&rsquo;s post-towns are testaments to the Edo period, the two centuries between 1603 and 1868 when Japan was completely closed to outside influence. During this time, the shōgun was the military ruler, and daimyō &ndash; the warlords overseeing Japan&rsquo;s domains &ndash; were forced to live in Edo (present-day Tokyo) every other year in a system called sankin kōtai, or &lsquo;alternate attendance&rsquo;.

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Five major highways (including the historic Nakasendō Trail) connected the capital to the rest of Japan, and these post-towns (marked with the suffix juku in Japanese) served as a lifeline for the three-hundred-odd feudal lords, in addition to traders, travellers, and pilgrims, who would need a place to rest at each leg of the arduous journey. The shōgun&rsquo;s taxes &ndash; collected in bushels of rice &ndash; also travelled through these arteries. A single post-town could earn enough money from a lord&rsquo;s visit to tide it over until the next visit a year later.&nbsp;

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<img alt="People walking through Ouchi-juku" height="1000" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/cdn-cgi/image/format=webp,quality=80/https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/dscf1697_s-1739769486778.JPG" width="1500" />

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Encircled by mountains, the historical domain of Aizu sits roughly 300 kilometres north of Tōkyō, in the inland portion of Fukushima Prefecture. In its heyday, it was a powerful domain that prided itself on the discipline of its samurai and its loyalty to the shōgun. The daimyō of the domain travelled via a route called the Shimotsuke Kaidō, which connected Aizu to one of the five major routes; one of the 16 post-towns, where British explorer, writer, and naturalist Isabella Bird spent the night, is called &lsquo;Ōuchi&rsquo;, or, just as commonly, &lsquo;Ōuchi-juku&rsquo;.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Thatched-roof home with flowers in the foreground" height="200" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/cdn-cgi/image/format=webp,quality=80/https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/dscf1707_cc_web-1739765698327.jpg" style="margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; float: left;" width="300" />

It seems to be a miracle that Ōuchi-juku managed to survive the many things that would doom other post-towns. It remained mostly untouched by fire or war; even the Boshin War of the late 19th century, which pitted the shogunate loyalists of the Aizu Domain against the new Imperial government, did not affect the town. After the Meiji Restoration in 1868, Japan industrialised rapidly, leading to new roads and railways and the expansion of towns. From this point up into the 20th century, many post-towns were absorbed into larger towns and cities or fell into disrepair. The march of progress missed Aizu as a result of the domain&rsquo;s remote location, and Ōuchi-juku with it.&nbsp;

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The post-town had been independent from its reliance on the sankin sankin kōtai processions for a while; during the mid-Edo period, the Shimotsuke Kaidō had fallen out of use in favour of a different route. The townspeople had pivoted, and the post-town became a farming town. Its early move from an inn-based economy to agriculture allowed it to continue to sustain itself without reliance on the world beyond the mountains. In the 1970s, the Japanese government declared Ōuchi-juku a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings; phone lines that had initially stretched between the old buildings were buried underground, and it was deemed a preserved area and an important relic of Japan&rsquo;s history.&nbsp;

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<img alt="A man working on a thatched roof" height="1000" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/cdn-cgi/image/format=webp,quality=80/https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/dscf1715_cc_web-1739769575452.jpg" width="1500" />

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The first thing to catch one&rsquo;s eye upon walking into Ōuchi-juku will be the thatched rooves. In the Edo period, this kind of thatching was widespread, but many of them were replaced by ceramic tiles in the time since. Ōuchi-juku now remains one of very few towns with this feature: a true snapshot of the shōgun&rsquo;s Japan. Between the rustic, traditional buildings and the green mountain peaks, the town makes for a lovely, tranquil retreat. Wander the streets, and you may see the rare sight of a workman re-thatching one of the rooves. Shops sell traditional Aizu crafts, including akabeko &ndash; red cow toys said to ward off illness.

&nbsp;

<img alt="" height="200" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/cdn-cgi/image/format=webp,quality=80/https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/negisoba-1739769626996.jpg" style="margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; float: left;" width="200" />One of the most notable culinary features of the town is its negi soba, buckwheat noodles that, rather than with a chopstick, are eaten with a large leek. Slurp up the broth and noodles, then take a bite of your utensil for a nice, sharp accent flavour.&nbsp;

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From the observatory at the north end of town, you can look down and see the traditional buildings from above. Perhaps, for a moment, you&rsquo;ll step out of the 21st century and see the very sight Isabella Bird saw, as did the retinues that travelled decades before her: the small post-town, secure within its valley, ready to receive weary travellers.

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<img alt="View overlooking Ouchi-juku" height="1000" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/cdn-cgi/image/format=webp,quality=80/https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/dscf1685_cc_web-1739765760497.jpg" width="1500" />

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Related tours:

<a href="https://www.okujapan.com/trips/spirit-of-aizu-self-guided-walking-6-days/">Spirit of Aizu self-guided walking 6 days</a> 
<a href="https://www.okujapan.com/trips/spirit-of-aizu-self-guided-walking-7-days/">Spirit of Aizu self-guided walking 7 days</a>

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In its heyday, Aizu was a powerful domain that prided itself on the discipline of its samurai and its loyalty to the shōgun.

Ōuchi-juku: The Post-town Hidden from Time

In our <a href="https://www.okujapan.com/blog/oku-japan-michinoku-coastal-trail/">first post about the Michinoku Coastal Trail</a>, we discussed the beauty and unique charm of Tōhoku&rsquo;s Sanriku coast, the northern part of the Michinoku. While Tōhoku&rsquo;s northern location sets it apart from the rest of Japan in terms of environment, flora, and fauna, it also means there are special things to keep in mind when travelling here. Hiroshi, Daniel, and Geoff weighed in on their personal experience when hiking the trail, offering up some of their advice to people embarking on their own Michinoku hiking journey.&nbsp;

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<img alt="A sign warning travellers of waves" height="400" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/20231111_133405-1715848874654.jpg" style="float: left; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px;" width="300" />

The very thing that makes Tōhoku so pleasant in the summer &ndash; its cooler weather &ndash; also makes it chillier than one would expect in autumn and spring.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

&lsquo;In most of Japan, March is the beginning of spring, but in Tōhoku (as in its northern neighbour, Hokkaidō) spring only truly starts in May. If you&rsquo;re travelling up north, be sure to bring gloves,&rsquo; says Hiroshi.&nbsp;

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Gloves are just the start; when hiking in the area in April or October, it&rsquo;s best to dress as if for winter. Common favoured wear includes neck warmers, scarves, warm pants, warm socks, and definitely a windproof, insulating jacket.&nbsp;

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&lsquo;Windproofing should not be taken lightly,&rsquo; is Daniel&rsquo;s warning. Wind chill can sharply raise the risk of hypothermia, even in warmer months, so protection is mandatory. &lsquo;Be sure to bring a windbreaker even in the summer; winter weather will require an even heavier jacket.&rsquo;

&nbsp;

The Tōhoku coast is startlingly windy, especially on cliffs such as the magnificent Cape Kitayamazaki. The wind and the sharp drops together make for a dangerous combination, and visitors are encouraged to exercise caution around any ridge or dropoff. Geoff cautions being aware of where land ends and ocean begins, particularly if one isn&rsquo;t used to hiking near the sea. &lsquo;There are places where the cliffs are weaker, or where there&rsquo;s more erosion due to the wind or the waves...it doesn&rsquo;t look much different than the rest of the cliff, which is what makes it dangerous. It&rsquo;s always best not to take chances. Even if the cliff is stable, there&rsquo;s the wind gusts...always keep the edge in mind, and stay a good distance back.&rsquo;

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<img alt="Beautiful scenery over the coast" height="600" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/20231113_112503-1715848936949.jpg" width="800" />

Walking poles are another highly recommended piece of gear. There are many elevation changes; walking poles help both on ascent and descent, particularly in slippery conditions such as the rainy season or in autumn when fallen leaves may cover the trail.&nbsp;

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Of course, nothing can beat a good pair of shoes. &lsquo;The Michinoku Coastal Trail has some climbs that you really want good shoes on,&rsquo; says Geoff. &lsquo;Mine definitely made a world of difference.&rsquo; Grip on trails, resistance against slipping, and most importantly, ankle support will make your days of hiking enjoyable and sustainable.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

Compared to many other places throughout Japan, the Michinoku Coastal Trail is much more remote. Satellite &ndash; and thus mobile phone service &ndash; may be limited, so downloading offline GPS information and utilising physical maps is important, as is staying on the trail no matter what. Blue-and-white trail-marking ribbons wrapped around trees, courtesy of the Ministry of the Environment, can help mark your way; keep an eye out for these.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<img alt="Trail-marking ribbons on the Michinoku Coastal Trail" height="400" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/20231110_110447-1715848981926.jpg" style="margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; float: left;" width="300" />Tourism information centres can help you guide the way, but Daniel reminds that the area is still very far removed from any city centres. He recommends keeping track of bus timetables and your own schedule to ensure you don&rsquo;t miss one of the rarer buses. Keeping your surroundings in mind &ndash; both in terms of geography and in terms of timing &ndash; is important here.

&nbsp;

Finally, as with many hiking areas in the north, it&rsquo;s important to keep an eye out for signs of and warnings about bears. All our gentlemen warn that a bear bell is one of the two most important tools you can have with you, the second being knowledge. &lsquo;Even with the bell, make noise as you walk &ndash; make even more if you&rsquo;re by a river or when it&rsquo;s windy, in case your sound gets drowned out. Seal up and pack out any litter to keep bears from following the smell, and always watch out for signs such as footprints and scat.&rsquo;&nbsp;

&nbsp;

Through their multiple trips to the Michinoku Coastal Trail over the course of the year, none of our team members encountered an actual bear on their travels. &nbsp;However, as any hiker should, they kept the best practices for avoiding an encounter in mind.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Sunset over the water" height="600" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/20231110_060349edit-1715849010689.jpg" width="800" />

While preparing for the Michinoku Coastal Trail takes a bit more consideration &ndash; and Tōhoku hiking takes a little more care &ndash; it&rsquo;s a journey that hundreds of people have found to be awe-inspiring. Our Oku Japan team members came back from their Michinoku trip with many new, beloved memories; we hope that yours will be just as rewarding. Happy hiking!

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While preparing for the Michinoku Coastal Trail takes a bit more consideration – and Tōhoku hiking takes a little more care – it’s a journey that hundreds of people have found to be awe-inspiring. Our Oku Japan team members came back from their Michinoku trip with many new, beloved memories.

Preparing for the Michinoku Coastal Trail: Advice from Oku Japan

<h2 style="text-align: justify;">Handwritten Artworks that Record a Journey</h2>

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A small book that folds out like a paper screen, adorned with calligraphy in red and black ink&hellip;or sometimes with a cute animal. They are different from stamps that you press yourself; watching them being drawn is a delight each and every time. &nbsp;Some consider them little pieces of art, as each one is handwritten with beautiful calligraphy. The ancient tradition of collecting goshuin (御朱印/red seal) is still alive and well, but now has a few modern twists.

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The pages of a goshuincho (御朱印帳/red seal book) keep a record of every shrine and temple visited. The date and location are written on every seal, making it a personal travelogue of your spiritual journey. It is believed that goshuin were created during the Nara period (710&ndash;794) to have an official record of pilgrimages. &nbsp;Initially called noukyoucho (納経帳), goshuin stamps were given as a receipt for copying scriptures and giving temple offerings.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<img alt="" height="200" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/528a0305-1694236919677.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 5px;" width="300" />Originally goshuin were collected on a single scroll that could later be displayed. The modern goshuincho with its hard cover is a recent addition from the Taisho period (1912&ndash;1926) and is much easier to carry around. You can still buy the hanging scrolls at major pilgrimages such as the Shikoku 88 or the Kumano Kodo. For Shikoku, you can even request that the red seal be stamped onto your white pilgrim&rsquo;s robe.

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A goshuincho serves as a sort of passport for the next life at the end of this one, proving how faithful a person was. It is usually laid to rest next to the body of the deceased, but may just as often be displayed on a home altar to protect the family; a completed goshuincho is equivalent to a powerful amulet. The more books someone finishes, the more protection they will receive.&nbsp;

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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">Where to buy goshuincho</h2>

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Bookstores and tourist shops sell goshuincho, but shrines and temples also offer their own unique designs. You can find the books at the goshuin counter; when you buy one, the local goshuin is usually included. Most goshuincho books are between 1,500 and 3,000 yen.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;

<h2 style="text-align: justify;">How do I receive a goshuin?</h2>

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Nearly every shrine and temple has a counter where you can receive a goshuin stamp. Sometimes they are easily spotted, with people waiting in line with their books. Other times they are hidden in buildings on the temple or shrine precincts.

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If there is a long line, the attendant might take your book and hand you a number. You can give your book with the page opened to where you want the goshuin, otherwise it will be drawn on the next blank page. If your goshuincho book is new, some major shrines will leave the first two pages blank to keep spaces for Ise Grand Shrine&rsquo;s inner and outer shrines. Ise Grand Shrine is considered the head of all Japan&rsquo;s shrines, which is why it gets this honour.&nbsp; A visit to the Grand Shrine is included in our 4-day or 5-day Iseji tour, and you can indicate that you want to leave these pages blank yourself by pointing to the third page of your goshuincho when giving it to the attendant.

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A goshuin is 300 &ndash; 500 yen, and is usually cash only.

&nbsp;

<img alt="" height="333" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/528a0298-1694237169277.jpg" width="500" />

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Some temples and shrines offer more than one red goshuin seal; there are seals for subordinate or concurrent shrines, as well as the head shrine. Temples&rsquo; goshuin offerings are sometimes divided into halls and some even have red seals for specific statues. You can find goshuin with fun quirks, such as Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine in Kyoto, which writes the character for eight (八) as two birds. There are even colourful, more modern, goshuin for special occasions, or goshuin you can only receive on certain days of the month. As an example, Hongu Grand Shrine on the Kumano Kodo has a special goshuin stamps for each season. You can keep coming back to get the full collection!

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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">Collect them all!</h2>

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Goshuin aren&rsquo;t limited to pilgrimage routes and can be found all over Japan. If you haven&rsquo;t filled out your book on your first trip, that&rsquo;s a great reason to come back!

<img alt="" height="333" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/goshuincho-1694237938053.jpg" width="1000" /> 
&nbsp;

img_17482-1694236597764.jpg

A small book that folds out like a paper screen, adorned with calligraphy in red and black ink…or sometimes with a cute animal. The ancient tradition of collecting goshuin (御朱印/red seal) is still alive and well, but now has a few modern twists.

Goshuin Temple and Shrine Stamps

In 2019, Oku Japan became the first and only tour operator to open a branch office in the Nakasendo post-town of Tsumago. After more than a decade of working with the local community to ensure our tour activities align with the preservation goals of Tsumago, the community welcomed us &ndash; we renovated an old&nbsp;kominka&nbsp;home to serve as space for our team to operate daily activities and be available to both locals and any guests that may drop by.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Becoming a part of the community in Tsumago</h2>

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While the members of the community are warm and friendly to visitors, the community is widely viewed as being &#39;closed&#39;, because they deeply value and seek to preserve the traditions of the town which date back hundreds of years. In principle, the preservation of this Edo Period post-town comes first and serves as the basis for a great majority of activities and events within the community. This extends to business, and outsiders are widely excluded from operating within the town in order to ensure that the preservation of Tsumago is at the heart of all endeavours.

&nbsp;

As a result of Oku Japan&rsquo;s close ties to the community, we received permission to operate our branch office activities and were absolutely humbled and overjoyed at the opportunity. This has allowed us to further strengthen our ties in Tsumago, confidently introducing international guests to this beautifully-preserved post-town while aligning with Tsumago&rsquo;s preservation goals and receiving feedback from locals each step of the way.

&nbsp;

In July 2019, shortly before the official opening of our office, we were kindly invited to participate in the yearly Wachino Jinja Festival. Our team member Shinya had spent months living in Tsumago, and then on the first night of the festival, joined the local men in carrying the&nbsp;mikoshi, the miniature portable shrine often seen at festivals which carries the deity as it is transported to its shrine.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/1871_w1000_h1000-1663651356473.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Oku Japan&rsquo;s team in Tsumago</h2>

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Yasushi and Noriko are a husband and wife couple on our team and have been serving as our base in Tsumago since the opening of our branch office. Yasushi and Noriko are regularly invited to join local club activities and have had the joy of experiencing both the big and small moments of togetherness in Tsumago. Noriko was invited to join a soba noodle-making activity with a local club, and the pair often take part in small celebratory drinking parties after important events.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/1861_w640_h480-1663653297282.jpg" style="height:480px; width:640px" />

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Working closely with the Tsumago Lovers Association, Yasushi and Noriko are involved in the various activities the association operates, helping out in any way possible with local preservation efforts and also maintaining the relationships we have built over the years, so we can feel confident that everything we do aligns with the needs of the post-town while also bringing value to our guests who visit Japan with us and experience hiking on the Nakasendo.

&nbsp;

One such activity was a local clean-up organised by Yasushi. During autumn, he recruited volunteers from within Tsumago as well as from surrounding towns, and everyone then gathered in Tsumago to engage in trail maintenance for the portion of the Nakasendo Trail near Tsumago. Clearing overgrown shrubbery and removing debris, everyone worked together to improve the safety of the trail. They then turned toward Tsumago itself, cleaning up the public toilet and street.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Visit Oku Japan while you&rsquo;re on the trail</h2>

&nbsp;

Our Tsumago office is a bit different from our Chikatsuyu office, located on the Kumano Kodo, in terms of functionality. In Chikatsuyu, our office also serves as a place for some of our guests to stay the night. In Tsumago, this type of business activity is strictly reserved for the community members to maintain the traditions of the town.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/831_w1000_h1000-1663651683199.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

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However, our office will greet you as you arrive into Tsumago after walking from Magome, and we are there to welcome you with tea and a chat as you rest. Yasushi and Noriko are there to provide you with more information about Tsumago, answer any questions you may have and introduce you to neighbours should they stop by.

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After more than a decade of working with the local community, in 2019 Oku Japan became the first and only tour operator to open a branch office in the Nakasendo post-town of Tsumago.

Oku Japan's activities in Tsumago

The Michinoku Coastal Trail is a breathtaking trip through Tōhoku&rsquo;s eastern coast and a destination that Oku Japan has been excited to offer. The response from our guests has been amazing, with a great deal of anticipation for our tour, which focuses on the northern part of the Michinoku Coastal Trail, historically known as &lsquo;Sanriku&rsquo;.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

We talked with three of our team members who surveyed and hiked the Michinoku Coastal Trail in preparation for the launch: Hiroshi, Daniel, and Geoff.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

Hiroshi, a Japanese national who has also worked in Australia, is an avid hiker who is drawn to mountain trails. For him, nature is what informs his favourite hiking destinations; he loves untouched wilderness, unique flora and fauna, and uninhabited places.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

&lsquo;I don&rsquo;t like to go anywhere where I can meet another person,&rsquo; laughs Daniel, an Australian member of the team who, like Hiroshi, prefers to hike off the beaten track. His impression of the Michinoku Coastal Trail wasn&rsquo;t one of just beauty, but of a place that was refreshing and invigorating.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<img alt="Hiroshi looking out over the coastline" height="1080" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/dsc_01211610-1712550189955.jpg" width="1920" />

&nbsp;

Geoff, who hails from Germany and enjoys hiking anywhere near water &ndash; from lakes to rivers to the sea &ndash; found the coastal hiking along the Michinoku Trail&rsquo;s rugged seaside cliffs and over its beaches to be a delight. He marvelled at the cleanliness of the water in places like Tanohata and Jōdogahama, where he could easily see schools of fish while wading along the shore.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

The ocean, with its crystal-clear beaches, lies at the heart of the Michinoku Coastal Trail&rsquo;s natural offerings. It&rsquo;s from this ocean that the area&rsquo;s primary industry &ndash; fishing &ndash; thrives, though the locals&rsquo; respect for the land is palpable. The Michinoku is a no-frills kind of place.&nbsp;Even Jōdogahama, which is arguably one of the more popular destinations in the area for visitors, has not been overdeveloped like some other tourist destinations.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<img alt="Sunset view from Jōdogahama" height="1080" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/img_91699191edit1610-1712550095951.jpg" width="1920" /> 
Jōdogahama, the beach named after a Buddhist paradise.&nbsp; 
&lsquo;There was a real pleasant sense of accomplishment at arriving there.&rsquo; -Daniel

&nbsp;

It&rsquo;s this that made their adventure along the Michinoku Coastal Trail a breath of fresh air. From the &lsquo;singing&rsquo; beach of Ōsuka to the expansive views from Samuraihama, their hikes through the trail were varied and always offered something new. &nbsp;Alpine flowers dotted the paths during Geoff and Hiroshi&rsquo;s summer visit, and Geoff remembers the trek up to the 200-metre-high Cape Kitayamazaki fondly.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

&lsquo;We&rsquo;d walk up one ridge that would have us going through a forest, then the next ridge would have us along a river, and the next over a pebble beach; something different every time. Then, finally, we came up over the last ridge and there was Kitayamazaki.&rsquo;&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<img alt="The view from Cape Kitayamazaki" height="1080" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/dsc_035721610-1712550006360.jpg" width="1920" /> 
&lsquo;I definitely want to make that hike again.&rsquo; -Geoff

&nbsp;

What also stood out to all our members who visited the Michinoku Coastal Trail were the people. Wherever our group went, they were greeted with warmth, with smiles, and hospitality. There was always an eagerness to show their culture off to visitors:&nbsp;

&nbsp;

The residents of the Sanriku Coast are bound together by a number of things: the remoteness of the area, a shared way of life, and tragedy. The 2011 Tōhoku earthquake and subsequent tsunami tested the limits of human endurance and bonds; over a decade later, the scars on the land and on the hearts of people are still present. However, the disaster also proved their resilience. Even scattered as they were, the people here reached out to one another to help in a time of need. Notably, the disaster spurred many youths who had moved out to urban centres to &lsquo;make a u-turn,&rsquo; a phrase used in Japan to refer to people who&rsquo;d relocated to the city returning to the rural areas they hailed from.&nbsp;

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Much work has been done to rebuild, and the sense of pride in the land and the community is palpable. Throughout their trip, all of our team members felt the strong connection between the residents themselves, as well as between the residents and travellers.

&nbsp;

<img alt="Warm hospitality awaits you" height="867" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/dsc_032421610-1712550293786.jpg" width="1540" /> 
&lsquo;We were touched by the friendliness of the locals &ndash; meeting the people feels meaningful. You can tell they&rsquo;re happy to see visitors in their little corner of the world.&rsquo; -Geoff

&nbsp;

<img alt="A feast consisting of a variety of seafood" height="188" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/20231111_180237edit1000-1712548998215.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 5px;" width="250" />When asked what kind of person would love the Michinoku Coastal Trail as much as they did, our team members agreed on one particular thing: to traverse the Michinoku Trail, one must love seafood. With both the quality of ocean bounties and the emphasis on fishing in the area, from&nbsp;standard fare such as fish and uni (sea urchin &ndash; the local speciality) to hoya (sea squirt), Tōhoku is truly a seafood gourmand&rsquo;s dream...but people who do not enjoy it may struggle. If you&rsquo;re planning on travelling here, now&rsquo;s your chance to sample some unique dishes, such as awabi korokke, or abalone croquette.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

&nbsp;

The ridges, elevation changes, and lengthy beach walks also ask for a bit more care. A confident hiker would highly enjoy the trail, though there isn&rsquo;t enough of a challenge to sate avid alpinists. Nevertheless, the Michinoku Coastal Trail is an unforgettable experience. For anyone who&rsquo;s looking for something a little different in their exploration of Japan, the Sanriku coast is a vivid example of Tōhoku&rsquo;s unique gifts.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<img alt="View over the rugged coastline" height="1080" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ck-editor/dsc001271610-1712550507239.jpg" width="1920" /> 
&lsquo;There&rsquo;s a sense of sincerity here. The people hold onto their roots, and their treasure is the land itself.&rsquo; -Hiroshi

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‘There’s a sense of sincerity here. The people hold onto their roots, and their treasure is the land itself.’

Oku Japan on the Michinoku Coastal Trail: Tracing the Sanriku Coast

If I had to choose the most memorable section of the Kumano Kodo, one that I could not forget even if I tried to, one that my mind unconsciously keeps flying back to like a magnet...if I had to choose only one, then it is, without a single doubt, the Ogumotorigoe Pass between Koguchi and Nachi. Even now, the area stands &ndash; or rather floats, like a gigantic cloud &ndash; at the top of my consciousness.&nbsp;

<img alt="" height="375" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/dsc6176web.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 5px;" width="250" />

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The Kumano Kodo&rsquo;s Nakahechi Trail is filled with superb hikes, unforgettable landscapes, charming villages, magnificent torii gates and ancient shrines. I love a thousand things about the Kumano Kodo, a thousand things that hold a dear place in my heart, but none of them come close to the haunting memory of the Ogumotorigoe walk.&nbsp;

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Crossing the eternal green corridor of the Nakahechi trail&rsquo;s last hike on my own, I saw Nature&rsquo;s great power come into play. From the very start at the trailhead in Koguchi, those discreet dark, moss-hidden steps felt like a secret stairway leading to the gates of another realm. Here, when I took the first step, I knew no side routes or shortcuts were possible; there was no turning back. I just had to keep walking up these ancient steps, passing titanic rocks or stepping over monstrous roots waving across the trails like the tentacles of a deep-sea monster. In the early misty morning, I felt like I was being watched. In the afternoon, I understood I was being tested.

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The Ogumotorigoe is a challenge of perseverance, overcoming obstacle after obstacle, trying to catch a new breath between each one. The Ogumotorigoe is a path to acceptance as you see the signs which dot the trail and realise that the goal is still a long way ahead of you. The Ogumotorigoe is also a fight with yourself, a quest to find the inner strength to move forward, to show the Kumano Gods you truly are worthy of the rewards waiting on the other side.&nbsp;

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<img alt="" height="600" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/dsc6155web.jpg" width="900" />

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Step after step after step, as I was slowly but surely getting closer to the clouds, something started to change in me. I stopped feeling tired. I no longer felt the pain in my legs and feet. The backpack on my back became as light as a feather. The rocks, the roots and the trees, gloomy at first, became allies. The wind howling through the giant cedar trees turned into an enchanting melody. The silent misty mountain seemed to awaken from her sleep, peering with curiosity and care at this tiny adventurer climbing on her back. Halfway through the trail, as I was settling onto a bench for my long-desired lunch break, I had the feeling of living my first moment as a new man.

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<img alt="" height="375" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/day-5-koguchi-to-nachi-23web.jpg" style="margin: 5px; float: left;" width="250" />People say that you come to the Kumano Kodo to be purified, to be reborn, to awaken your true self. At the final steps of the Ogumotorigoe Pass, entering the Nachi precinct more than 7 hours after my departure from Koguchi, I stopped walking at last. Breathing the fresh air, gazing at the great Nachi Falls now visible in the distance and overwhelmed by pride and joy, I finally understood why people told this tale of being born anew. The Ogumotorigoe, as the closing chapter of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route, is, in itself, a pilgrimage and a lifetime achievement in my eyes. Walking the path of another world through a deep forest full of mysteries, crossing mist and time, making your way to the other side to discover your final goal: a place of wonder built by Nature and Man alike.

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The Ogumotorigoe Pass greedily hid treasures far beyond my expectations. Treasures whose beauty only those who have walked the trail can fully realize. The incredible woodwork masterpieces of Seiganto-ji Temple, the natural elegance of Nachi Grand Shrine, the godly sight of Nachi Falls and the gorgeous primaeval forest surrounding it are the very highlights of the Kumano Kodo. After the long journey, the sense of arrival as I reached paradise in Nachi is a tale that I will proudly share with my children and grandchildren, a precious memory in the annals of my existence. I am sure that this feeling is shared by many other people who have challenged the Ogumotorigoe hike.

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Here I was, in one piece, taking my time to finally sit down and enjoy the scenery. I had no stress, no worries, no fear: I might be leaving here soon, but here sure won&rsquo;t leave me.

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Even now, the area stands – or rather floats, like a gigantic cloud – at the top of my consciousness. 

Hiking the Afterlife: Kumano Kodo Ogumotorigoe

Many visitors to Japan put Kyōto on their list of must-see places. It&rsquo;s no wonder &ndash; the city is rich in history and traditions from its over-1000-year tenure as Japan&rsquo;s capital. But did you know that there are even older capitals of Japan that are just as magnificent?

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Nara is located in Japan&#39;s Kansai region in the Kii Peninsula, south of Kyōto and east of Ōsaka, in an area known as the Yamato Plain.&nbsp;Nara is the heartland of Japanese civilization: The Imperial Family of Japan has its roots here, Buddhism found its first foothold here, and art and culture that spread throughout the rest of Japan originated here.&nbsp;While today Nara City is known for the deer that roam freely through Nara Park, Nara and the surrounding areas are also home to a number of UNESCO World Heritage sites, National Treasures, and Tangible Cultural Properties. &nbsp;

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Access to Nara from Ōsaka and Kyōto is easy &ndash; multiple train lines connect with Nara, and the journey can be made in as little as 35 minutes.&nbsp;

<h2 style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</h2>

<h2 style="text-align: justify;">The Asuka Period and the emergence of &lsquo;Nippon&rsquo;</h2>

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Asuka, located south of Nara, is the first documented centre of imperial power in Japan.&nbsp;The arrival of agriculture and rice cultivation from China and Korea ushered in a time of prosperity where the population grew and society became grouped into powerful clans. These clans would eventually emerge into an imperial court system. Cultural, political, and spiritual influences travelled across the Sea of Japan.&nbsp;

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<img alt="The Ishibutai Tumulus, a massive burial mound from the Asuka Period" height="600" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/asuka-rocks-1-1689901088809.jpg" style=" border-width: 0px; border-style: solid;" width="800" />

The Ishibutai Tumulus, a massive burial mound from the Asuka Period 
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One of the Asuka Period&rsquo;s most significant figures was Prince Shōtoku. As acting regent, Shōtoku rooted out corruption and helped to create Japan&rsquo;s first constitution &ndash; a 17-article code of precepts inspired by Confucianism. In contrast to modern constitutions, which outline the relationship between the government and the people, and the former&rsquo;s duties to the latter, Shōtoku&rsquo;s was a code of moral behaviour for the ruling class.&nbsp;

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Arguably even more significantly, Prince Shōtoku actively promoted a new religion that had been introduced from Korea: Buddhism. He commissioned the construction of temples and was a stalwart supporter of making Buddhism the state religion.&nbsp; Even after his death, the ripples of his influence continued to spread as the Asuka Period gave way to the Nara Period.

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One more important thing about the Asuka period: it was during this time that the name of the country known as 和, Wa, was changed to 日本 &ndash; the Nippon (or Nihon) we all know today. This too is, in a way, credited to Prince Shōtoku. It is said that the Prince began a letter to Emperor Yang of China with &#39;The Son of Heaven where the sun rises, to the Son of Heaven where the sun sets, may good health be with you&#39;.&nbsp; The people eventually adopted this as the country&rsquo;s name, using kanji symbols that literally mean &#39;the sun&rsquo;s origin&#39;.&nbsp;

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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">The Nara Period in Japan</h2>

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While in ancient times it was common for the capital to move with each new emperor, by 710 the Japanese court had grown enough that a permanent capital was considered necessary. That capital became Nara, then known as &#39;Heijō-kyō&#39;.

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The Nara Period in Japanese history is significant for solidifying the societal and cultural changes that began in the Asuka period. It was during the Nara Period that the Nihon Shoki and the Kojiki &ndash; the first records of Japanese history &ndash; were written. Melding the chronicles of man with the legends of the gods, these are historians&rsquo; windows into the ancient past. We know of Prince Shōtoku&rsquo;s accomplishments today thanks to the Nihon Shoki.

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(Incidentally, it is in legend that we get the answer for why there are so many deer in Nara. It is said that when Kasuga Grand Shrine was built, a god ascended to the mountain on the back of a deer. Since then, deer have been seen as messengers of gods and bringers of fortune in the Nara area, and it is illegal to kill one.)

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<img alt="The Great Buddha of Tōdai-ji Temple" height="333" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/img_6015-1689901236284.jpg" style=" margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; float: left;" width="500" />Buddhism became a mainstay, joining the indigenous Shintoism as one of the main religions of Japan. Emperor Shōmu, a staunch Buddhist himself (and the first Japanese emperor to become a Buddhist priest after retirement), commissioned Tōdai-ji Temple and its Great Buddha (Daibutsu) statue.&nbsp;

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Japan continued to import culture from abroad; China and Korea were the most significant trade partners, but goods from as far as the Middle East and Rome have been found in Nara, the eastern terminus of the Silk Road.

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Nara is significant in that it has buildings and construction preserved all the way from its time as Japan&rsquo;s capital &ndash; more so than even Kyōto, which has transformed due to modernization and war. Serious efforts have been and continue to be undertaken to protect historical areas for present and future generations.

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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">Exploring the Nara Region Today</h2>

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The Nara region is a treat for any history lover. Visitors will have the chance to walk along the Yamanobe-no-michi (Japan&#39;s oldest road) or the Yagyū Kaidō (notable for its connection to a famous swordsman clan) and take in the same natural beauty no doubt admired by the travellers of the past.&nbsp;

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Embark on our Ancient Capitals tour and you&rsquo;ll see a collection of monuments both familiar and unfamiliar, all steeped in antiquity. Tachibana-dera Temple, for example, is said to be built on the site of Prince Shōtoku&rsquo;s birthplace. Kofun burial mounds, for which the region is well-known, serve as the resting places for many of the ancient periods&rsquo; most important aristocrats. Kasuga Grand Shrine, one of the oldest Shinto shrines in the country, is considered a must-see place in Nara.

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<img alt="The Yūhi Kannon, one of many Buddhist stone monuments visible on the Yagyū Kaidō trail. " height="533" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/yuhi-kannon-2-1689901269860.jpg" width="800" />

The Yūhi Kannon, one of many Buddhist stone monuments visible on the Yagyū Kaidō trail.&nbsp;

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&hellip;And then there are the mysterious ones, such as the Kame-ishi or &#39;Tortoise Stone&#39;. No one knows what the purpose of this funny-looking stone monument is (though one theory suggests that it was intended as a boundary marker) but an old legend tells us that if the south-facing figure should ever turn west, the Nara Basin will sink into a muddy quagmire.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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While Nara and Asuka were the capitals for just over a combined two centuries, their significance in Japanese history can&rsquo;t be overstated. Kyōto and Edo &ndash; Tōkyō &ndash; helped to build Japan into the country it is today, but that structure stands on a foundation created over 1,300 years ago.

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Many visitors to Japan put Kyoto on their list of must-see places. It’s no wonder – the city is rich in history and traditions from its over-1000-year tenure as Japan’s capital. But did you know that there are even older capitals of Japan that are just as magnificent?

Nara and Asuka: Japan’s Ancient Capitals

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<img alt="Jizo statue with crocheted hat" height="397" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/image202212011323031-1669875784117.jpeg" style="float:left" width="264" />While walking in Japan, you&rsquo;ll likely spot small stone statues shaped like children or depictions of Buddha. While these may seem like mischievous forest sprites, moss-covered and popping up from between trees at the most unusual locations, their real identity tells a different story.

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Jizo&nbsp;(地蔵/womb of the earth), as they are called, are made in the image of Jizo Bosatsu, guardian deity of children and travellers. They&#39;re also known as the &lsquo;earth bearer&rsquo;, so&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;statues are made out of stone, which is said to have a spiritual power for protection and longevity that predates Buddhist beliefs.

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Jizo Bosatsu is a kind and patient deity, and so the statues are fine with eroding under rainwater and being covered in moss. These small stone incarnations greet us along the trail, bringing protection and power when we need it.

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And where there is a&nbsp;jizo, you may also find a small tower of stones nearby.

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Another purpose of the&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;is to protect the spirits of children who have passed away. It is said that when a child dies before their parents do, they are not able to cross the river to the afterlife and so their days are spent making towers of stones to help gain merit for their parents in their own afterlife. However, mean spirited&nbsp;yokai&nbsp;(妖怪/monster or demon) knock down these stone towers each day, so the children begin their Sisyphean task anew.

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As an act of kindness, travellers build stone towers in front of&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;to reduce their workload, and you can find an interesting&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;called&nbsp;Sainokawara (賽の河原/children&rsquo;s limbo)&nbsp;along the Kumano Kodo where thousands of stones have been piled up in front it - the combined effort of hundreds of travellers over the years.

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The value of these stone towers is not only in their ability to gain credit for the afterlife; they are also a form of protection. Once the stone towers are destroyed, the&nbsp;yokai&nbsp;are free to hunt the children, and this is when Jizo Bosatsu hides the children beneath his clothing. He becomes their caretaker in place of their parents.

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<img alt="Stones stacked on the Nakasendo" height="664" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/image202212011325252-1669875926098.jpeg" width="1000" />

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In the colder months local people will take care of&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;by dressing them with red bibs and hats, as helping a Buddhist monk is a virtuous gesture and, again, earns more of that credit for getting into the afterlife. The color red, in Japan, wards away illness and danger, so it is the perfect colour for a guardian deity.

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Now, be sure not to confuse these&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;with&nbsp;dosojin&nbsp;(道祖神/road ancestor god), another type of statue found along the road. These small statues depict a couple and are Shinto deities of protection which have been replaced over time by the Buddhist Jizo, but their presence on hiking trails and pilgrimages is still strong.

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A pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo was once meant to be a rigorous journey of spiritual salvation or repentance.&nbsp;Jizo&nbsp;not only protect the souls of children but also travellers, and have been made as memorials to protect the spirits of those who passed away died before they could complete their pilgrimage.

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While the statues are small and may seem insignificant, it is important to recognise their role on the trail where they offered encouragement to weary travellers and were one of the few road markers during the early days of the Kumano Kodo trail. If you have an extra rock or two to hand then be sure to add to a stone tower if you see one - the&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;would surely be very grateful.

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<img alt="You may encounter jizo on many occasions while hiking" height="666" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/image202212011325513-1669875952897.jpeg" width="1000" />

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While walking in Japan, you’ll ikely spot small stone statues shaped like children or depictions of Buddha. These may seem like mischievous forest sprites, but their real identity tells a different story.

Japanese Jizo statues: ancient protectors of the trail

<h2 style="text-align:justify">A historical look at dining etiquette in Japan</h2>

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Traditional Japanese cuisine is characterized by serving small portions on a variety of dishes. Appreciating the pure taste of every ingredient is the heart of&nbsp;kaiseki ryori, the ultimate showmanship of a Japanese chef. With a luxurious meal comes exquisite pottery, lacquerware, and impeccable table manners to match. In the old days, it was only nobles and high-ranking officials who had the time to sit down and leisurely enjoy a meal. It is no surprise that this rank of society bestowed an eating order upon every dish to maximize its flavour in combination with the other ingredients present.

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Slowly, over the years and as the societal gap began to close, these table manners spread to the general populace in diluted form. Dietary etiquette was regarded as a culture and discipline passed down within the family on the same level as general mannerisms and customs. This whole package of &lsquo;rules&rsquo; is considered the correct and polite thing to do when being served or serving food.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Regional hot pot" height="667" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/nabe-1663827378276.jpg" width="1000" />

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Tipping etiquette in Japan</h2>

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The level of hospitality bestowed upon you needs only to be reciprocated with an elegant appreciation of the food before you. As such, there is no need for a monetary reward when it comes to dining, and there is no real tipping etiquette in Japan. This tends to be a particularly interesting and occasionally confusing aspect of Japanese culture for American guests in particular, due to the strong tipping culture in the United States. Oku Japan was featured in an <a href="https://matadornetwork.com/read/never-tip-japan/">interesting article</a> in Matador Network about Japan&rsquo;s dining etiquette and&nbsp;why you should never tip.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">What to expect when being served a meal in Japan</h2>

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Upon being served your first traditional Japanese meal, you will notice the attention to detail in some of the smallest things. Special lacquerware spoons are provided for lacquerware dishes, not for aesthetic purposes, but because silverware might scratch the delicate lacquer surface. Rice is always served on your left, so you may hold it in your left hand while holding your chopsticks in your right.

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<img alt="Winter hot pot" height="667" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/shabushabu-1663827403688.jpg" width="1000" />

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In Japan, it is common to pick up dishes and bring them closer to your mouth for cleaner eating. Bringing your face closer to the plates is called &lsquo;eating like a dog&rsquo; and is considered improper. The chopstick rests that you see on your table are actually quite a recent invention starting in the Meiji era. Before eating at a dining table became common, people ate from their personal serving tray and their eating utensils never made contact with another surface. Keeping chopsticks clean from other surfaces was only done during Shinto rituals.

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Even now, most family members have their own personal chopsticks that they use for every meal. Maybe this is because the idea of clean chopsticks used to be associated with the divine? While Japan is modern and even boasts some incredibly advanced technology, many traditional beliefs and superstitions are alive and well.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Japanese dining rules are not as strict as one may think</h2>

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While there is a plethora of rules connected to Japanese cuisine, the truth of the matter is that they have become quite relaxed over the years as foreign cuisine started to mix with mainstream culture. While most locals will not call you out on minor mistakes, and it is best to follow the example of the people around you, there are three big offenders that you would do best to avoid.

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The first faux pas is placing your chopsticks upright in your rice, as this looks very similar to a funeral offering for the deceased. The second faux pas also has a connection to funerals. Passing anything from chopstick to chopstick is only done during funerals as a ritual after cremation, when relatives pass the remaining bones of the deceased to each other and place them in the funerary urn. To pass food to someone, first place it on a plate and then pass the plate on. The last faux pas is fairly simple as it is uncommon in most cultures as well - pointing with your chopsticks to people. This has no cultural background, but is simply considered messy and rude, your chopstick is an eating tool after all.

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<img alt="Fresh fish" height="667" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ingredients-1663827421146.jpg" width="1000" />

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Seeing so many rules laid out may seem overwhelming or difficult to remember. Even in the country itself there is debate on certain rules and even the names for certain utensils. This just goes to show that no one singular rule sticks and that learning as you go is the best approach &ndash; in general, be mindful and respectful, and those you are interacting with will appreciate your efforts. See it as another way of connecting with the local people and their culture. You might even learn something new that you can share with your friends who have visited other regions in Japan.

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While there is a plethora of rules connected to Japanese cuisine, the truth of the matter is that they have become quite relaxed over the years as foreign cuisine started to mix with mainstream culture.