<h2 style="text-align: justify;">Handwritten Artworks that Record a Journey</h2>

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A small book that folds out like a paper screen, adorned with calligraphy in red and black ink&hellip;or sometimes with a cute animal. They are different from stamps that you press yourself; watching them being drawn is a delight each and every time. &nbsp;Some consider them little pieces of art, as each one is handwritten with beautiful calligraphy. The ancient tradition of collecting goshuin (御朱印/red seal) is still alive and well, but now has a few modern twists.

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The pages of a goshuincho (御朱印帳/red seal book) keep a record of every shrine and temple visited. The date and location are written on every seal, making it a personal travelogue of your spiritual journey. It is believed that goshuin were created during the Nara period (710&ndash;794) to have an official record of pilgrimages. &nbsp;Initially called noukyoucho (納経帳), goshuin stamps were given as a receipt for copying scriptures and giving temple offerings.&nbsp;

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<img alt="" height="200" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/528a0305-1694236919677.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 5px;" width="300" />Originally goshuin were collected on a single scroll that could later be displayed. The modern goshuincho with its hard cover is a recent addition from the Taisho period (1912&ndash;1926) and is much easier to carry around. You can still buy the hanging scrolls at major pilgrimages such as the Shikoku 88 or the Kumano Kodo. For Shikoku, you can even request that the red seal be stamped onto your white pilgrim&rsquo;s robe.

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A goshuincho serves as a sort of passport for the next life at the end of this one, proving how faithful a person was. It is usually laid to rest next to the body of the deceased, but may just as often be displayed on a home altar to protect the family; a completed goshuincho is equivalent to a powerful amulet. The more books someone finishes, the more protection they will receive.&nbsp;

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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">Where to buy goshuincho</h2>

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Bookstores and tourist shops sell goshuincho, but shrines and temples also offer their own unique designs. You can find the books at the goshuin counter; when you buy one, the local goshuin is usually included. Most goshuincho books are between 1,500 and 3,000 yen.&nbsp; 
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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">How do I receive a goshuin?</h2>

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Nearly every shrine and temple has a counter where you can receive a goshuin stamp. Sometimes they are easily spotted, with people waiting in line with their books. Other times they are hidden in buildings on the temple or shrine precincts.

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If there is a long line, the attendant might take your book and hand you a number. You can give your book with the page opened to where you want the goshuin, otherwise it will be drawn on the next blank page. If your goshuincho book is new, some major shrines will leave the first two pages blank to keep spaces for Ise Grand Shrine&rsquo;s inner and outer shrines. Ise Grand Shrine is considered the head of all Japan&rsquo;s shrines, which is why it gets this honour.&nbsp; A visit to the Grand Shrine is included in our 4-day or 5-day Iseji tour, and you can indicate that you want to leave these pages blank yourself by pointing to the third page of your goshuincho when giving it to the attendant.

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A goshuin is 300 &ndash; 500 yen, and is usually cash only.

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<img alt="" height="333" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/528a0298-1694237169277.jpg" width="500" />

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Some temples and shrines offer more than one red goshuin seal; there are seals for subordinate or concurrent shrines, as well as the head shrine. Temples&rsquo; goshuin offerings are sometimes divided into halls and some even have red seals for specific statues. You can find goshuin with fun quirks, such as Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine in Kyoto, which writes the character for eight (八) as two birds. There are even colourful, more modern, goshuin for special occasions, or goshuin you can only receive on certain days of the month. As an example, Hongu Grand Shrine on the Kumano Kodo has a special goshuin stamps for each season. You can keep coming back to get the full collection!

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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">Collect them all!</h2>

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Goshuin aren&rsquo;t limited to pilgrimage routes and can be found all over Japan. If you haven&rsquo;t filled out your book on your first trip, that&rsquo;s a great reason to come back!

<img alt="" height="333" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/goshuincho-1694237938053.jpg" width="1000" /> 
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A small book that folds out like a paper screen, adorned with calligraphy in red and black ink…or sometimes with a cute animal. The ancient tradition of collecting goshuin (御朱印/red seal) is still alive and well, but now has a few modern twists.

Goshuin Temple and Shrine Stamps

In 2019, Oku Japan became the first and only tour operator to open a branch office in the Nakasendo post-town of Tsumago. After more than a decade of working with the local community to ensure our tour activities align with the preservation goals of Tsumago, the community welcomed us &ndash; we renovated an old&nbsp;kominka&nbsp;home to serve as space for our team to operate daily activities and be available to both locals and any guests that may drop by.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Becoming a part of the community in Tsumago</h2>

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While the members of the community are warm and friendly to visitors, the community is widely viewed as being &#39;closed&#39;, because they deeply value and seek to preserve the traditions of the town which date back hundreds of years. In principle, the preservation of this Edo Period post-town comes first and serves as the basis for a great majority of activities and events within the community. This extends to business, and outsiders are widely excluded from operating within the town in order to ensure that the preservation of Tsumago is at the heart of all endeavours.

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As a result of Oku Japan&rsquo;s close ties to the community, we received permission to operate our branch office activities and were absolutely humbled and overjoyed at the opportunity. This has allowed us to further strengthen our ties in Tsumago, confidently introducing international guests to this beautifully-preserved post-town while aligning with Tsumago&rsquo;s preservation goals and receiving feedback from locals each step of the way.

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In July 2019, shortly before the official opening of our office, we were kindly invited to participate in the yearly Wachino Jinja Festival. Our team member Shinya had spent months living in Tsumago, and then on the first night of the festival, joined the local men in carrying the&nbsp;mikoshi, the miniature portable shrine often seen at festivals which carries the deity as it is transported to its shrine.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/1871_w1000_h1000-1663651356473.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Oku Japan&rsquo;s team in Tsumago</h2>

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Yasushi and Noriko are a husband and wife couple on our team and have been serving as our base in Tsumago since the opening of our branch office. Yasushi and Noriko are regularly invited to join local club activities and have had the joy of experiencing both the big and small moments of togetherness in Tsumago. Noriko was invited to join a soba noodle-making activity with a local club, and the pair often take part in small celebratory drinking parties after important events.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/1861_w640_h480-1663653297282.jpg" style="height:480px; width:640px" />

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Working closely with the Tsumago Lovers Association, Yasushi and Noriko are involved in the various activities the association operates, helping out in any way possible with local preservation efforts and also maintaining the relationships we have built over the years, so we can feel confident that everything we do aligns with the needs of the post-town while also bringing value to our guests who visit Japan with us and experience hiking on the Nakasendo.

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One such activity was a local clean-up organised by Yasushi. During autumn, he recruited volunteers from within Tsumago as well as from surrounding towns, and everyone then gathered in Tsumago to engage in trail maintenance for the portion of the Nakasendo Trail near Tsumago. Clearing overgrown shrubbery and removing debris, everyone worked together to improve the safety of the trail. They then turned toward Tsumago itself, cleaning up the public toilet and street.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Visit Oku Japan while you&rsquo;re on the trail</h2>

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Our Tsumago office is a bit different from our Chikatsuyu office, located on the Kumano Kodo, in terms of functionality. In Chikatsuyu, our office also serves as a place for some of our guests to stay the night. In Tsumago, this type of business activity is strictly reserved for the community members to maintain the traditions of the town.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/831_w1000_h1000-1663651683199.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

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However, our office will greet you as you arrive into Tsumago after walking from Magome, and we are there to welcome you with tea and a chat as you rest. Yasushi and Noriko are there to provide you with more information about Tsumago, answer any questions you may have and introduce you to neighbours should they stop by.

After more than a decade of working with the local community, in 2019 Oku Japan became the first and only tour operator to open a branch office in the Nakasendo post-town of Tsumago.

Oku Japan's activities in Tsumago

If I had to choose the most memorable section of the Kumano Kodo, one that I could not forget even if I tried to, one that my mind unconsciously keeps flying back to like a magnet...if I had to choose only one, then it is, without a single doubt, the Ogumotorigoe Pass between Koguchi and Nachi. Even now, the area stands &ndash; or rather floats, like a gigantic cloud &ndash; at the top of my consciousness.&nbsp;

<img alt="" height="375" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/dsc6176web.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 5px;" width="250" />

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The Kumano Kodo&rsquo;s Nakahechi Trail is filled with superb hikes, unforgettable landscapes, charming villages, magnificent torii gates and ancient shrines. I love a thousand things about the Kumano Kodo, a thousand things that hold a dear place in my heart, but none of them come close to the haunting memory of the Ogumotorigoe walk.&nbsp;

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Crossing the eternal green corridor of the Nakahechi trail&rsquo;s last hike on my own, I saw Nature&rsquo;s great power come into play. From the very start at the trailhead in Koguchi, those discreet dark, moss-hidden steps felt like a secret stairway leading to the gates of another realm. Here, when I took the first step, I knew no side routes or shortcuts were possible; there was no turning back. I just had to keep walking up these ancient steps, passing titanic rocks or stepping over monstrous roots waving across the trails like the tentacles of a deep-sea monster. In the early misty morning, I felt like I was being watched. In the afternoon, I understood I was being tested.

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The Ogumotorigoe is a challenge of perseverance, overcoming obstacle after obstacle, trying to catch a new breath between each one. The Ogumotorigoe is a path to acceptance as you see the signs which dot the trail and realise that the goal is still a long way ahead of you. The Ogumotorigoe is also a fight with yourself, a quest to find the inner strength to move forward, to show the Kumano Gods you truly are worthy of the rewards waiting on the other side.&nbsp;

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<img alt="" height="600" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/dsc6155web.jpg" width="900" />

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Step after step after step, as I was slowly but surely getting closer to the clouds, something started to change in me. I stopped feeling tired. I no longer felt the pain in my legs and feet. The backpack on my back became as light as a feather. The rocks, the roots and the trees, gloomy at first, became allies. The wind howling through the giant cedar trees turned into an enchanting melody. The silent misty mountain seemed to awaken from her sleep, peering with curiosity and care at this tiny adventurer climbing on her back. Halfway through the trail, as I was settling onto a bench for my long-desired lunch break, I had the feeling of living my first moment as a new man.

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<img alt="" height="375" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/day-5-koguchi-to-nachi-23web.jpg" style="margin: 5px; float: left;" width="250" />People say that you come to the Kumano Kodo to be purified, to be reborn, to awaken your true self. At the final steps of the Ogumotorigoe Pass, entering the Nachi precinct more than 7 hours after my departure from Koguchi, I stopped walking at last. Breathing the fresh air, gazing at the great Nachi Falls now visible in the distance and overwhelmed by pride and joy, I finally understood why people told this tale of being born anew. The Ogumotorigoe, as the closing chapter of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route, is, in itself, a pilgrimage and a lifetime achievement in my eyes. Walking the path of another world through a deep forest full of mysteries, crossing mist and time, making your way to the other side to discover your final goal: a place of wonder built by Nature and Man alike.

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The Ogumotorigoe Pass greedily hid treasures far beyond my expectations. Treasures whose beauty only those who have walked the trail can fully realize. The incredible woodwork masterpieces of Seiganto-ji Temple, the natural elegance of Nachi Grand Shrine, the godly sight of Nachi Falls and the gorgeous primaeval forest surrounding it are the very highlights of the Kumano Kodo. After the long journey, the sense of arrival as I reached paradise in Nachi is a tale that I will proudly share with my children and grandchildren, a precious memory in the annals of my existence. I am sure that this feeling is shared by many other people who have challenged the Ogumotorigoe hike.

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Here I was, in one piece, taking my time to finally sit down and enjoy the scenery. I had no stress, no worries, no fear: I might be leaving here soon, but here sure won&rsquo;t leave me.

Even now, the area stands – or rather floats, like a gigantic cloud – at the top of my consciousness. 

Hiking the Afterlife: Kumano Kodo Ogumotorigoe

Many visitors to Japan put Kyōto on their list of must-see places. It&rsquo;s no wonder &ndash; the city is rich in history and traditions from its over-1000-year tenure as Japan&rsquo;s capital. But did you know that there are even older capitals of Japan that are just as magnificent?

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Nara is located in Japan&#39;s Kansai region in the Kii Peninsula, south of Kyōto and east of Ōsaka, in an area known as the Yamato Plain.&nbsp;Nara is the heartland of Japanese civilization: The Imperial Family of Japan has its roots here, Buddhism found its first foothold here, and art and culture that spread throughout the rest of Japan originated here.&nbsp;While today Nara City is known for the deer that roam freely through Nara Park, Nara and the surrounding areas are also home to a number of UNESCO World Heritage sites, National Treasures, and Tangible Cultural Properties. &nbsp;

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Access to Nara from Ōsaka and Kyōto is easy &ndash; multiple train lines connect with Nara, and the journey can be made in as little as 35 minutes.&nbsp;

<h2 style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</h2>

<h2 style="text-align: justify;">The Asuka Period and the emergence of &lsquo;Nippon&rsquo;</h2>

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Asuka, located south of Nara, is the first documented centre of imperial power in Japan.&nbsp;The arrival of agriculture and rice cultivation from China and Korea ushered in a time of prosperity where the population grew and society became grouped into powerful clans. These clans would eventually emerge into an imperial court system. Cultural, political, and spiritual influences travelled across the Sea of Japan.&nbsp;

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<img alt="The Ishibutai Tumulus, a massive burial mound from the Asuka Period" height="600" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/asuka-rocks-1-1689901088809.jpg" style=" border-width: 0px; border-style: solid;" width="800" />

The Ishibutai Tumulus, a massive burial mound from the Asuka Period 
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One of the Asuka Period&rsquo;s most significant figures was Prince Shōtoku. As acting regent, Shōtoku rooted out corruption and helped to create Japan&rsquo;s first constitution &ndash; a 17-article code of precepts inspired by Confucianism. In contrast to modern constitutions, which outline the relationship between the government and the people, and the former&rsquo;s duties to the latter, Shōtoku&rsquo;s was a code of moral behaviour for the ruling class.&nbsp;

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Arguably even more significantly, Prince Shōtoku actively promoted a new religion that had been introduced from Korea: Buddhism. He commissioned the construction of temples and was a stalwart supporter of making Buddhism the state religion.&nbsp; Even after his death, the ripples of his influence continued to spread as the Asuka Period gave way to the Nara Period.

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One more important thing about the Asuka period: it was during this time that the name of the country known as 和, Wa, was changed to 日本 &ndash; the Nippon (or Nihon) we all know today. This too is, in a way, credited to Prince Shōtoku. It is said that the Prince began a letter to Emperor Yang of China with &#39;The Son of Heaven where the sun rises, to the Son of Heaven where the sun sets, may good health be with you&#39;.&nbsp; The people eventually adopted this as the country&rsquo;s name, using kanji symbols that literally mean &#39;the sun&rsquo;s origin&#39;.&nbsp;

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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">The Nara Period in Japan</h2>

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While in ancient times it was common for the capital to move with each new emperor, by 710 the Japanese court had grown enough that a permanent capital was considered necessary. That capital became Nara, then known as &#39;Heijō-kyō&#39;.

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The Nara Period in Japanese history is significant for solidifying the societal and cultural changes that began in the Asuka period. It was during the Nara Period that the Nihon Shoki and the Kojiki &ndash; the first records of Japanese history &ndash; were written. Melding the chronicles of man with the legends of the gods, these are historians&rsquo; windows into the ancient past. We know of Prince Shōtoku&rsquo;s accomplishments today thanks to the Nihon Shoki.

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(Incidentally, it is in legend that we get the answer for why there are so many deer in Nara. It is said that when Kasuga Grand Shrine was built, a god ascended to the mountain on the back of a deer. Since then, deer have been seen as messengers of gods and bringers of fortune in the Nara area, and it is illegal to kill one.)

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<img alt="The Great Buddha of Tōdai-ji Temple" height="333" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/img_6015-1689901236284.jpg" style=" margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; float: left;" width="500" />Buddhism became a mainstay, joining the indigenous Shintoism as one of the main religions of Japan. Emperor Shōmu, a staunch Buddhist himself (and the first Japanese emperor to become a Buddhist priest after retirement), commissioned Tōdai-ji Temple and its Great Buddha (Daibutsu) statue.&nbsp;

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Japan continued to import culture from abroad; China and Korea were the most significant trade partners, but goods from as far as the Middle East and Rome have been found in Nara, the eastern terminus of the Silk Road.

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Nara is significant in that it has buildings and construction preserved all the way from its time as Japan&rsquo;s capital &ndash; more so than even Kyōto, which has transformed due to modernization and war. Serious efforts have been and continue to be undertaken to protect historical areas for present and future generations.

<h2 style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</h2>

<h2 style="text-align: justify;">Exploring the Nara Region Today</h2>

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The Nara region is a treat for any history lover. Visitors will have the chance to walk along the Yamanobe-no-michi (Japan&#39;s oldest road) or the Yagyū Kaidō (notable for its connection to a famous swordsman clan) and take in the same natural beauty no doubt admired by the travellers of the past.&nbsp;

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Embark on our Ancient Capitals tour and you&rsquo;ll see a collection of monuments both familiar and unfamiliar, all steeped in antiquity. Tachibana-dera Temple, for example, is said to be built on the site of Prince Shōtoku&rsquo;s birthplace. Kofun burial mounds, for which the region is well-known, serve as the resting places for many of the ancient periods&rsquo; most important aristocrats. Kasuga Grand Shrine, one of the oldest Shinto shrines in the country, is considered a must-see place in Nara.

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<img alt="The Yūhi Kannon, one of many Buddhist stone monuments visible on the Yagyū Kaidō trail. " height="533" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/yuhi-kannon-2-1689901269860.jpg" width="800" />

The Yūhi Kannon, one of many Buddhist stone monuments visible on the Yagyū Kaidō trail.&nbsp;

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&hellip;And then there are the mysterious ones, such as the Kame-ishi or &#39;Tortoise Stone&#39;. No one knows what the purpose of this funny-looking stone monument is (though one theory suggests that it was intended as a boundary marker) but an old legend tells us that if the south-facing figure should ever turn west, the Nara Basin will sink into a muddy quagmire.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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While Nara and Asuka were the capitals for just over a combined two centuries, their significance in Japanese history can&rsquo;t be overstated. Kyōto and Edo &ndash; Tōkyō &ndash; helped to build Japan into the country it is today, but that structure stands on a foundation created over 1,300 years ago.

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Many visitors to Japan put Kyoto on their list of must-see places. It’s no wonder – the city is rich in history and traditions from its over-1000-year tenure as Japan’s capital. But did you know that there are even older capitals of Japan that are just as magnificent?

Nara and Asuka: Japan’s Ancient Capitals

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<img alt="Jizo statue with crocheted hat" height="397" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/image202212011323031-1669875784117.jpeg" style="float:left" width="264" />While walking in Japan, you&rsquo;ll likely spot small stone statues shaped like children or depictions of Buddha. While these may seem like mischievous forest sprites, moss-covered and popping up from between trees at the most unusual locations, their real identity tells a different story.

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Jizo&nbsp;(地蔵/womb of the earth), as they are called, are made in the image of Jizo Bosatsu, guardian deity of children and travellers. They&#39;re also known as the &lsquo;earth bearer&rsquo;, so&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;statues are made out of stone, which is said to have a spiritual power for protection and longevity that predates Buddhist beliefs.

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Jizo Bosatsu is a kind and patient deity, and so the statues are fine with eroding under rainwater and being covered in moss. These small stone incarnations greet us along the trail, bringing protection and power when we need it.

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And where there is a&nbsp;jizo, you may also find a small tower of stones nearby.

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Another purpose of the&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;is to protect the spirits of children who have passed away. It is said that when a child dies before their parents do, they are not able to cross the river to the afterlife and so their days are spent making towers of stones to help gain merit for their parents in their own afterlife. However, mean spirited&nbsp;yokai&nbsp;(妖怪/monster or demon) knock down these stone towers each day, so the children begin their Sisyphean task anew.

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As an act of kindness, travellers build stone towers in front of&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;to reduce their workload, and you can find an interesting&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;called&nbsp;Sainokawara (賽の河原/children&rsquo;s limbo)&nbsp;along the Kumano Kodo where thousands of stones have been piled up in front it - the combined effort of hundreds of travellers over the years.

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The value of these stone towers is not only in their ability to gain credit for the afterlife; they are also a form of protection. Once the stone towers are destroyed, the&nbsp;yokai&nbsp;are free to hunt the children, and this is when Jizo Bosatsu hides the children beneath his clothing. He becomes their caretaker in place of their parents.

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<img alt="Stones stacked on the Nakasendo" height="664" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/image202212011325252-1669875926098.jpeg" width="1000" />

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In the colder months local people will take care of&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;by dressing them with red bibs and hats, as helping a Buddhist monk is a virtuous gesture and, again, earns more of that credit for getting into the afterlife. The color red, in Japan, wards away illness and danger, so it is the perfect colour for a guardian deity.

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Now, be sure not to confuse these&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;with&nbsp;dosojin&nbsp;(道祖神/road ancestor god), another type of statue found along the road. These small statues depict a couple and are Shinto deities of protection which have been replaced over time by the Buddhist Jizo, but their presence on hiking trails and pilgrimages is still strong.

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A pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo was once meant to be a rigorous journey of spiritual salvation or repentance.&nbsp;Jizo&nbsp;not only protect the souls of children but also travellers, and have been made as memorials to protect the spirits of those who passed away died before they could complete their pilgrimage.

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While the statues are small and may seem insignificant, it is important to recognise their role on the trail where they offered encouragement to weary travellers and were one of the few road markers during the early days of the Kumano Kodo trail. If you have an extra rock or two to hand then be sure to add to a stone tower if you see one - the&nbsp;jizo&nbsp;would surely be very grateful.

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<img alt="You may encounter jizo on many occasions while hiking" height="666" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/image202212011325513-1669875952897.jpeg" width="1000" />

While walking in Japan, you’ll ikely spot small stone statues shaped like children or depictions of Buddha. These may seem like mischievous forest sprites, but their real identity tells a different story.

Japanese Jizo statues: ancient protectors of the trail

<h2 style="text-align:justify">A historical look at dining etiquette in Japan</h2>

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Traditional Japanese cuisine is characterized by serving small portions on a variety of dishes. Appreciating the pure taste of every ingredient is the heart of&nbsp;kaiseki ryori, the ultimate showmanship of a Japanese chef. With a luxurious meal comes exquisite pottery, lacquerware, and impeccable table manners to match. In the old days, it was only nobles and high-ranking officials who had the time to sit down and leisurely enjoy a meal. It is no surprise that this rank of society bestowed an eating order upon every dish to maximize its flavour in combination with the other ingredients present.

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Slowly, over the years and as the societal gap began to close, these table manners spread to the general populace in diluted form. Dietary etiquette was regarded as a culture and discipline passed down within the family on the same level as general mannerisms and customs. This whole package of &lsquo;rules&rsquo; is considered the correct and polite thing to do when being served or serving food.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Regional hot pot" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/nabe-1663827378276.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Tipping etiquette in Japan</h2>

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The level of hospitality bestowed upon you needs only to be reciprocated with an elegant appreciation of the food before you. As such, there is no need for a monetary reward when it comes to dining, and there is no real tipping etiquette in Japan. This tends to be a particularly interesting and occasionally confusing aspect of Japanese culture for American guests in particular, due to the strong tipping culture in the United States. Oku Japan was featured in an interesting article Matador Network about Japan&rsquo;s dining etiquette and&nbsp;<a href="https://matadornetwork.com/read/never-tip-japan/">why you should never tip</a>.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">What to expect when being served a meal in Japan</h2>

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Upon being served your first traditional Japanese meal, you will notice the attention to detail in some of the smallest things. Special lacquerware spoons are provided for lacquerware dishes, not for aesthetic purposes, but because silverware might scratch the delicate lacquer surface. Rice is always served on your left, so you may hold it in your left hand while holding your chopsticks in your right.

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<img alt="Winter hot pot" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/shabushabu-1663827403688.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

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In Japan, it is common to pick up dishes and bring them closer to your mouth for cleaner eating. Bringing your face closer to the plates is called &lsquo;eating like a dog&rsquo; and is considered improper. The chopstick rests that you see on your table are actually quite a recent invention starting in the Meiji era. Before eating at a dining table became common, people ate from their personal serving tray and their eating utensils never made contact with another surface. Keeping chopsticks clean from other surfaces was only done during Shinto rituals.

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Even now, most family members have their own personal chopsticks that they use for every meal. Maybe this is because the idea of clean chopsticks used to be associated with the divine? While Japan is modern and even boasts some incredibly advanced technology, many traditional beliefs and superstitions are alive and well.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Japanese dining rules are not as strict as one may think</h2>

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While there is a plethora of rules connected to Japanese cuisine, the truth of the matter is that they have become quite relaxed over the years as foreign cuisine started to mix with mainstream culture. While most locals will not call you out on minor mistakes, and it is best to follow the example of the people around you, there are three big offenders that you would do best to avoid.

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The first faux pas is placing your chopsticks upright in your rice, as this looks very similar to a funeral offering for the deceased. The second faux pas also has a connection to funerals. Passing anything from chopstick to chopstick is only done during funerals as a ritual after cremation, when relatives pass the remaining bones of the deceased to each other and place them in the funerary urn. To pass food to someone, first place it on a plate and then pass the plate on. The last faux pas is fairly simple as it is uncommon in most cultures as well - pointing with your chopsticks to people. This has no cultural background, but is simply considered messy and rude, your chopstick is an eating tool after all.

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<img alt="Fresh fish" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ingredients-1663827421146.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

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Seeing so many rules laid out may seem overwhelming or difficult to remember. Even in the country itself there is debate on certain rules and even the names for certain utensils. This just goes to show that no one singular rule sticks and that learning as you go is the best approach &ndash; in general, be mindful and respectful, and those you are interacting with will appreciate your efforts. See it as another way of connecting with the local people and their culture. You might even learn something new that you can share with your friends who have visited other regions in Japan.

While there is a plethora of rules connected to Japanese cuisine, the truth of the matter is that they have become quite relaxed over the years as foreign cuisine started to mix with mainstream culture.

Understanding Dining Etiquette on Your Trip to Japan

We often find ourselves at a crossroads in life, struggling to choose the right path. The signs can be confusing, or we simply seek answers to confirm we are headed towards our destination. What if I told you it is possible to walk both paths and find the balance in between? Follow in the footsteps of Dual Pilgrims who have walked very different roads but arrived at the same profoundly spiritual conclusion.&nbsp;

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">What does it mean to be a Dual Pilgrim?</h2>

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The Camino de Santiago, or Way of St. James, and the Kumano Kodo, are both listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites because of their cultural and historical significance. In fact, these two pilgrimage routes are the only ones with UNESCO status in the world. Travellers who have walked both pilgrimages are known as Dual Pilgrims.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/kumanobooklets-1663827992721.jpg" style="float:left; height:225px; width:300px" />

As a pilgrim of either route, you will receive items to identify you as such. For the Camino de Santiago this is the scallop, and the Kumano Kodo has a book with which to collect special seals. They may serve as proof of completion and will be presented at the end of your journey to receive your recognition as a Dual Pilgrim. For many these serve as treasured mementos of their pilgrimage.

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The creation of each route finds it origin in religion, but many people do not walk it because of a relationship with the divine. A pilgrimage is a unique way to discover yourself and find a place for your wayfaring soul. While not all travellers are spiritual beings, vast nature and the experience of venturing into the unknown have a way of pulling in everyone. Perhaps this is why we wander &ndash; not only to satiate our hunger for knowledge, but also to broaden our horizons. What are your doubts? Are you facing a big decision? Perhaps you simply long to explore a new setting while stretching your legs at the same time.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Why become a Dual Pilgrim?</h2>

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The Camino de Santiago and Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes have many similarities, though they come from significantly different spiritual traditions. They cross over mountains, past agricultural landscapes, and place importance on connecting with locals.

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In modern times, a pilgrimage has become a way to embrace what people of times past would have felt and experienced. Because of their protected status, the old roads are still intact and you will pass the same markers as thousands of travellers before you. For many, walking the Kumano Kodo has become an addition to their itinerary in order to discover old Japan. As a country that rushes to embrace modernity and technology, its historical spirit can sometimes be buried beneath neon lights and massive urban cities.

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While walking the Kumano Kodo, the barrier between you and nature becomes ever so thin, allowing the surroundings to influence your thoughts and spur a surrender to the present moment. The same goes for the Camino de Santiago. Though its roads are mostly flat and take you past agricultural landscapes and cities, it is the journey across different countries, exploring new cultures and customs, that makes it so eye-opening. Perhaps the essence of a Dual Pilgrim is appreciation of the present and connections between all of these areas of life.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/kumanoview-1663828064073.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">How to become a Dual Pilgrim</h2>

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Travellers acquire Dual Pilgrim status after completing at least the last 100 km of the Camino de Santiago on foot or by horse, or the last 200 km by bicycle.

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To become eligible for Dual Pilgrim status on the Kumano Kodo side, you will need to complete one of the following on foot and collect the stamps along the way:

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<ul>
	<li style="text-align:justify">🡆 Takijiri-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha (approximately 38 km)</li>
	<li style="text-align:justify">🡆 Kumano Nachi Taisha to/from Kumano Hongu Taisha (approximately 30 km)</li>
	<li style="text-align:justify">🡆 Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha (approximately 7 km) plus visits to both Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha, or</li>
	<li style="text-align:justify">🡆 Mount Koya to Kumano Hongu Taisha (approximately 70 km)</li>
</ul>

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If you are not acquainted with the details of the Kumano Kodo&rsquo;s classic Nakahechi route, these options can appear a bit complex to decipher. Oku Japan offers several self-guided walking options that will ensure you meet the requirements and are able to collect your stamps, as well as your Dual Pilgrim certificate if applicable. The tours shared below are all fantastic options for the traveller seeking Dual Pilgrim status now or considering it in the future.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/dualpilgrims-1663828146985.jpg" style="height:750px; width:1000px" />

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Oku Japan are there to help you along your journey. When you walk the Kumano Kodo with us, not only do you have emergency support from our team in Kyoto, but also the support from our branch office in Chikatsuyu. Perhaps it is only after completing the Camino de Santiago that you discovered you could seek dual pilgrim status. We will help prepare you for your journey with our comprehensive documentation, including bespoke topographical maps, detailed walking instructions, and your personalized itinerary. We book your accommodations, inclusive of breakfast and dinner, as well as your rail tickets. We can also arrange same day luggage transfer for your hike. Before your journey, you&rsquo;ll receive detailed documentation to prepare you for your trip to Japan, so you can travel worry free, and enjoy your pilgrimage.

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As a Kumano Kodo Dual Pilgrim, how will you see the world? We&rsquo;re excited to find out.

The Camino de Santiago, or Way of St. James, and the Kumano Kodo, are both listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites because of their cultural and historical significance. In fact, these two pilgrimage routes are the only ones with UNESCO status in the world.

Do you want to become a Dual Pilgrim?

The white-clad figures that pop up frequently during a search about the famous Shikoku 88 pilgrimage have an official name. They are called&nbsp;Ohenro.&nbsp; It is not an exclusive term - &nbsp;anyone can become one when walking the trail. There has been some confusion regarding the &nbsp;proper name for the pilgrims of Shikoku but the simple explanation lies in the way Japanese use language. The official name of the Shikoku Pilgrimage in Japanese is&nbsp;Shikoku Henro. The word &lsquo;henro&rsquo; simply translates to &lsquo;pilgrimage&rsquo; and is generally used for any pilgrimage. The &lsquo;O&rsquo; character is an honorific, a prefix used to add an air of importance to a word. This is why tea, or &lsquo;cha&rsquo; is &nbsp;&lsquo;ocha&rsquo; and a person undergoing a pilgrimage becomes an &lsquo;Ohenro&rsquo;.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage</h2>

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ohenro1-1663832678344.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

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Curiously, in Japan this more esteemed term is almost exclusively associated with the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage, despite it containing a wider meaning. This is because in the case of Japan, the &lsquo;Shikoku 88&rsquo; was the first type of pilgrimage to ever exist. During the Heian period (794 &ndash; 1185) the Shikoku area was a training ground for monks and people trying to attain spiritual enlightenment. Kukai, posthumously known as Kobo Daishi, was the monk who started it all. He was born in Shikoku and, later in life, founded the esoteric Shingon school of Buddhism. Because of his prominence his birthplace and training ground became a sacred place. Just as Kobo Daishi travelled across Shikoku to improve people&rsquo;s &nbsp;prospects for enlightenment; many of his adherents wished to follow in his footsteps. In doing so, this became the first type of pilgrimage. Over the years, many more trainees followed and the pilgrimage extended throughout the island.

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It is said in Buddhist canon that human beings have 88 worldly desires and every temple visit helps you purify yourself of these desires. Because of the expansion of the pilgrimage route, the Shikoku pilgrimage never had a set order. The first guidebook for the trail was written in 1687 titled&nbsp;Shikoku henro michishirube&nbsp;and instituted the numbering system of the temples called&nbsp;fudasho. This guidebook extensively used&nbsp;Ohenro&nbsp;as an honorific description of pilgrims, reinforcing its usage among the populace.

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<h2 style="text-align:justify">The Pilgrims Known as Ohenro</h2>

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As the term&nbsp;Ohenro&nbsp;became normalized, so did their appearance, but the origin of the white clothing is a somber one. While white is generally considered a symbol of purity in the West, in Japan it holds the meaning of a &lsquo;new beginning&rsquo; or an &lsquo;empty slate&rsquo;. The white garb of the&nbsp;Ohenro&nbsp;is meant to represent a shroud. Before cremations became the norm, Japanese people used to be buried wearing a pure white kimono. More than 1,000 years ago when the pilgrimage was established, a long journey through the mountains was extremely dangerous.

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Guidebooks did not exist until much later and pilgrims often had no idea about the terrain and dangerous animals lurking in the woods. As such, the white clothing was a preparation for a dangerous journey so that the body would be properly cared for in case of death. Of course, nowadays the pilgrimage isn&rsquo;t life-threatening, and roads have become more accessible. Despite this, modern-day pilgrims continue the white tradition as symbol of preparation for the journey and to identify themselves to the locals.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/ohenro2-1663832765174.jpg" style="float:left; height:300px; width:200px" />Some of the final items that an&nbsp;Ohenro&nbsp;will possess are a conical sedge hat called a&nbsp;sugegasa&nbsp;and a wooden staff called a&nbsp;kongozue. This wooden staff with carvings is said to embody Kobo Daishi as he is said to accompany every pilgrim on their journey. The&nbsp;sugegasa&nbsp;is used simply because it protects the wearer from sunlight and rain. Other essential items for the serious pilgrim are a Buddhist prayer beads, bell, candles and a pilgrimage book to record your visits.

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An&nbsp;Ohenro&nbsp;on the Shikoku Pilgrimage is someone who not only carries on a journey of self-reflection and enlightenment, but an active practitioner of an ancient tradition and its customs. Anyone and everyone can become an&nbsp;Ohenro, continuing the pilgrimage for another thousand years.

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The white-clad figures that pop up frequently during a search about the famous Shikoku 88 pilgrimage have an official name. They are called Ohenro. It is not an exclusive term - anyone can become one when walking the trail.

The Ohenro Pilgrims of the Shikoku Pilgrimage

One of the most common questions we get with regard to seasonality is &lsquo;when is cherry blossom season in Japan&rsquo;?&nbsp;

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As winter comes to an end,&nbsp;sakura&nbsp;(cherry blossoms) are eagerly awaited, as they add further colour to the landscape of Japan. They blossom first in southern areas of the country and work their way north, from sea-level to mountain-top. So, you have a very good chance of seeing them whether you are enjoying Japan in late March or even in early May.

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In March and April, cherry blossom mania begins - forecasts as to when and where the blooms will appear first and when they will peak make the morning weather reports.&nbsp;Sakura-flavored items make their way into restaurant menus, coffee shops, and supermarkets. The fleeting pink petals are celebrated in photography, poetry, and art. The cherry blossom season, however, is just one short part of a beautiful parade of spring flowers in Japan.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/cherryblossoms1-1663836511040.jpg" style="height:668px; width:1000px" />

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The locals typically flock to the best sites to do&nbsp;&#39;hanami&#39;&nbsp;(seeing flowers) in cities, parks, country areas, and even mountain trails. Television weather reports carry daily advice about where and when to go. Office workers organise&nbsp;hanami&nbsp;parties, bringing food and drink and as well portable karaoke machines. Beer is consumed in great quantities, and the karaoke microphone is passed around even as darkness descends. In years past, we&rsquo;ve had our own&nbsp;hanami&nbsp;parties in Kyoto.

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Hanami&nbsp;is a centuries-old tradition, starting perhaps during the early Nara period when Chinese tradition still was having a profound influence on Japan. Aristocrats of Heian-era Kyoto would hold&nbsp;hanami&nbsp;parties and write haiku poems while sipping sake. Karaoke may have replaced haiku, but it&#39;s still a uniquely Japanese event.

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Forecasts anticipate dates for cherry blossoms but it is worth knowing that these dates are not fixed. Mother nature will work to her own schedule, and weather conditions can be a factor in how early or how late the flowers bloom.&nbsp;

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Most forecasts will show two dates. The first is when the blossoms begin to appear, and the second &ndash; usually about a week later &ndash; is the date when the blossoms are expected reach their peak. After reaching their peak the flowers become very fragile, and if the spring is wet, the rain will make fast work of the blossoms.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/cherryblossoms2-1663836556377.jpg" style="height:783px; width:1000px" />

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There are many different kinds of cherry trees &ndash; some early-blooming and others late-blooming, so even when the blossoms for one type have fallen, those of others may still be about to reach their peak.

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Every year, it seems that the cherry blossom season begins earlier. In Okinawa, with its warm climate, the cherry blossoms have come and gone this year, and they appear as early as January and lasting as late as early February.

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For the four main islands of Japan, the forecasts usually start with predictions for the first blooms in Kyushu in mid to late March, with a peak about a week to 10 days later. In popular low-lying areas of Western Honshu and in Tokyo (Hiroshima, Osaka, Kyoto, Matsuyama)&nbsp;sakura&nbsp;make their first appearance in the latter half of March and peak at the beginning of April. In more mountainous inland areas or along the Sea of Japan, the first blossoms tend to appear in early April, peaking soon after. In southern Tohoku, the blossoms begin appearing around mid-April and also have a short window before reaching their peak. In Hokkaido,&nbsp;sakura&nbsp;emerge from late April and peak in early May.

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The blossoms emerge later at higher altitudes, and as most of our tours combine lower-lying and mountain areas, the cherry blossoms are often visible well into April, making the opportunities to view Japan&rsquo;s famed cherry blossoms during the Spring season are plentiful.

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<img alt="" src="https://static-oku.diqit.io/uploads/oku/cherryblossoms3-1663836597915.jpg" style="height:667px; width:1000px" />

In March and April, cherry blossom mania begins - forecasts as to when and where the blooms will appear first and when they will peak make the morning weather reports. Sakura -flavored items make their way into restaurant menus, coffee shops, and supermarkets.

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Nara and Asuka: Japan’s Ancient Capitals

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Japanese Jizo statues: ancient protectors of the trail

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Understanding Dining Etiquette on Your Trip to Japan

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The Ohenro Pilgrims of the Shikoku Pilgrimage

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When is cherry blossom season in Japan?

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